Santo Domingo

Alto del Perdon

Week two

Grañon

Week 2

Second week completed, with a few setbacks. Knee started pounding last Thursday. I went to the pharmacy, in Spain the pharmacist is similar to what we in America call a PA.  She suggested icing at every opportunity, elevation, and the use of an anti-inflammatory gel called Voltaren, and rest. Rest is not really option but I did take it slower for a few days. 

Along the way I spent the night in an albuerge run by nuns in Santo Domingo de La Calzada, known for having chickens inside the cathedral. Legend has it that a family of peregrinos came thru  Santo Domingo and the son rejected the advances on a girl. Scorned she accused him of theft. Theft was punishable by hanging.  The day after his death his parents went to find him only to be told that he was alive. To which the priest stated: He is as dead as my chicken dinner and just then the chicken began clucking.  So for centuries now there are always two chickens in the nave. The eggs are donated to the elderly.  That night I slept 14 hours. The next morning I was urged by a fellow peregrino to get going and walk to the next village  called Grañon which happens to be the coolest albuerge I've slept in thus far. It's a "donativo " albuerge which means you pay what you can afford.  Most  payed the usual rate of 8-10€.. the sleeping area is in the belfry of the church.  We shared a communal meal that we cooked together and cleaned up together. After dinner, we had a candlelight reflection in the nave. It was very moving.  Amongst us there were Germans, Dutch, and Korean, and everyone was encouraged to share their experiences while on the Camino in their own language if they preferred.  All spoke English, then our hospitalero sang Ode to Joy and of course the tears came. My favorite night on the Camino, thus far. I've met some wonderful kind people from all over.

The day after Grañon I walked to Belorado in blazing heat in the early morning.  I had the most wonderful walk with three Spanish dads walking with their three sons. They kept me company for several miles because I was really struggling knee wise and they were worried about me. They eventually passed me but kept me within eye sight and every now and then would pause until I caught up. We were within two or three miles of the village with temps approaching 100 when a car appeared handing out ice cold water bottles.  That's the amazing experiences that occur everyday. Just when you think you can't take another step someone shows up to encourage you. I've seen complete strangers tending to blisters of fellow peregrinos.  Sharing fruit, water, nuts. I've even had offers of carrying my pack to ease my knee pain. Spain really cares about us, in small villages we are their economy.  I asked an elderly lady in church if she ever tired of peregrinos and she said "no, you keep us fed."
This week I've walked 88 miles. I had three amazing days off in three of the biggest cities on the Camino and every day I'm a little closer.

Navarrete

The photo does not capture it's beauty. The other photo is at the Irache Vinyard. There is a wine fountain from which pilgrims can pour. UBER cool.

100 miles

My first week is complete and I've walked over 100 miles! Villages are becoming blurry, I have to keep referring to my pilgrim passport to remember where I've been. I bussed from Azofra to Logroño a distance of 60 or so miles because I want a few days off up ahead. Logroño was not my favorite.  All the albuergues were "completo" that's pilgrim speak for oh oh no beds. A kindly policeman called everyone on the list of available until he for d me an expensive bed. Pilgrims are grateful! I had a pretty fab dinner though. Seabass, a fantastic salad with anchovies and a delicious dessert with the wine. 12 euro. Won't tell you how much the bed was cause I was grateful and it had a tub! Coming out of Logroño I walked thru an Andalucia procession to honor the Andalucian virgin. I was super cool Roma celebration.  Lots of singing,  drinking, beautiful women dressed in full flamenco dress, and of course the famous horses. Really quite lovely. I'm having a difficult time uploading photos or I would show them to you. The rest of the walk out of Logroño was not fun. All asphalt, the payoff was the incredible cathedral of Navarrete.  It's so incredibly beautiful it's hard to find the words to describe. I just stared with tears down my face. Spent the night in Ventosa with a lovely group. Tour group that walks while their packs are transported. Our hospitalera was a little judgemental saying I was a true peregrina because I walk with my pack while they do not.  I disagree, we are all on a journey how a peregrino does it is not for us to judge.

Reflections of a peregrina

I've not posted in a few days because frankly, I've just been too exhausted. I think I've walked almost 50 miles in three days. I have seen such beauty I've cried at the site of it. I have been the beneficiary of incredible kindness too. Yesterday was a really hard day not as hard as day one which was 21k from Roncesvalles. Day 1 I walked 9 hours, the last three straight down in rocky terrain. Just when I had no juice left and  I could not take another step the RAF soldiers I met in Roncesvalles showed up, they are a fun bunch. When everyone is walking in the same direction you pass each other and meet at lunch /dinner or albuergues and tapas. One of the same guys passed me today running UPHILL in rocky terrain, with a pack on, in CROCS! I was humbled. Day two my walk was from Zubiri to Pamplona, it was a REALLY long day. Yesterday was the day I found out that when the book says it's 20k it's not really 20 K. I was so disheartened to look at my fitbit thinking "yeay, I'm almost there" only to discover, nope I still have three more miles. I took great comfort when I thought three miles that's 4 laps around Discovery Lake. .Gregg and I do that in 45 minutes I'll be there soon. Except NOT. I must have looked quite pitiful cause a policeman stopped me at the entrance into Pamplona and took my pack and carried it. I quite literally sobbed the Oprah ugly cry. He walked with me until I could see my albuerge which another peregrina was kind enough to reserve. More tears followed when naked and alone I discovered that my shower stall had a bench to sit on, which meant I did not have to stand while I showered.  When you have walked 14 miles you just don't have the bandwidth to stand a minute longer. I love Pamplona it's a beautiful city with amazing history. To my great credit I resisted shopping in the many souvenir shops because then I would  have carry it so that's incentive enough not to. Today was a bit easier. It rained, then  I got swarmed by wheat fleas (freaked me out, BAD). The beauty of the Camino is breath taking.  I had another fellow peregrina remind me to look back to see where I've been and how long I've come.  It's interesting the things that I think about waking amongst birds, flowers, waterfalls and deep forests. Today I sang to myself  "Jesus loves me, yes I know for the bible tells me so"  then Sting's "Fields of Gold." And the Nicaraguan "Misa Campesina" which is loosely translated to mean folk mass.  Singing keeps my mind of my aches and pains, and obsessing how much longer I have before dinner and a shower. Tomorrow is another day. Thinking about walking to Estella.  There is an albuerge there that is run entirely by adults with intellectual disabilities.  Also thinking I might take a short day. Feet are fairing ok no blisters but I could use a break. Currently I'm sitting with about a dozen peregrinos from Germany,  Holland,  and Korea, we are watching Germany play Poland. Funny night! Between all of us we can communicate in a combination of french, Spanish and English.  Here are a few snaps.

Saint Jean Pied de Port

An incredible day in the medieval city of Saint Jean Pied de Port. I've no words to describe the beauty of a place like this.

Busses and trains

One has to love a country that strikes but still has partial services. Renfre is the train service, today in a very organized and planned strike day, all the morning and some of the pm trains throughout the country are not running. What that fact means to me is that I had to change things up a bit and take a bus to Pamplona instead. Bus is better than greyhound. It has wifi and super clean seats, and w.c. .

Tapas

Madrid

Plaza Mayor

Madrid

Made it to Madrid!! The airport is crazy big. Enough so that there are commute times posted between terminals. Madrid reminds me of Time Square there are 1000's of tourists in the streets. So glad I chose Madrid as a launching pad. To my great credit, I did not live up to my blog name. I didn't get lost! Currently having tapas and vino tinto for dinner. I have to stay awake and investigate how I get to Pamplona tomorrow. 

The day has finally arrived

Thoughtful Co-Workers II

My last day at work before my great adventure, was filled with genuine heartfelt well wishes and the most amazing thoughtful gifts. The kinds of gifts that took time to make which makes them that much more meaningful. One such gift made me cry what Oprah calls the " ugly cry." The beautiful lady who painted the scallop shell had not painted in a long time. She shared with me that my journey inspired her to want to paint again. Another soul gave me two Saint Christopher medals which were blessed by her priest. Finally, my Camino angel #3 who saved me when I was about to lose my grip with Verizon customer service. She helped to solve a problem that Verizon could not. I am so moved by their generosity and kindness.  I am eternally grateful to work amongst these kind and caring souls.

Angels are real

Thoughtful Co-Workers

I work with the most caring, and warm individuals.  At least once a day one of them stops by my desk to inquire how many days I have left before I leave for Spain. They have also showered me with kind and thoughtful gifts. In the last few weeks I have received two sarongs, a neck pillow, a Swiss army gadget card, a rain poncho, (The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plains!) a dress, and a journal.  Today I found on my desk the loveliest card that so touched my heart I wept in heartfelt appreciation. In addition to the lovely card, there was an entire tiny beauty kit (cause a girl needs travel mascara, eye cream, lipstick, and foundation while hiking 500 miles) and a bracelet with a guardian angel medal. Thank you God for putting gentle loving friends on my Camino.

My gear

This is what 30 days of gear looks like.

My shell

Most pilgrims who walk the Camino can be identified by the scallop shell that hangs from their pack.  This one is mine. Usually, the shells that pilgrims have are unadorned. Mine because I'm an overachiever had to be different. Kinda cool eh?

Symbols of the Camino

There are many routes on the Camino de Santiago.  I will be walking the Camino Frances. The CF is by far the most traveled and the one that has the most pilgrim infrastructure.  There are many more options available for hostels (albergues is Spain) to sleep in, and places to eat. The road is marked with yellow arrows like this picture  so pilgrims don't get lost. The scallop shell signifies the many paths which lead to Santiago de Compostela, my destination.  Santiago de Compostela is the place where Saint James is buried.  Saint James was a fisherman thus the scallop shell is both a symbol of the Camino and a representation Saint James.

5 Days

When the boys were young and we were counting down to important dates such as Christmas or the end of the school year for example,  we used to keep track of how many more wake-ups we had until the special day finally arrived. As of today I have 5 more wake-ups until I depart for Spain and embark on a 500 mile walk across northern Spain on the Camino de Santiago. I am at once, both anxious and excited. I only have a few preparations left to do, amongst them is making three piles of the gear I have been accumulating for the past year. Must have, want, and luxury items. I have to do this necessary pruning to avoid carrying more weight in my backpack then the recommended 10% of my body weight. Being a bit overweight now is a good thing! Do I REALLY need to take a sarong/dress to change into after a hot sweaty day of walking in hiking gear?? I have 5 more wake-ups to figure it out.